Traditionally, the South West of France was poor farming land. The living was meagre - sending second sons to the army (think Les Cadets Gascon) or to the church. Modern agriculture has changed all that, however the tradition paysan persists.
As an elderly local once said, “Ici…on a la merde sur les chausseures!”.
Ducks, geese, garlic, prunes, lingot beans, cured pork - these are the inherited ingredients that feature in the markets, boutiques and restaurants. Local classics include foie gras, magrets de canards, confit d’oie, Pruneax-armagnac ice cream, saucisses de Toulouse aux lentilles and, of course, cassoulet. Luckily, many of these specialities are beautifully preserved by artisan producers and travel really well.
So, if you want to buy a tasty souvenir or just fancy a foodie browse, stroll about the quartier Marché Victor Hugo.
The city, of course, is a multicultural and international capital. Yes, patissiers, chocolatiers and fromagers do abound, but so do North African tea rooms serving mint tea and honey and almond confections, couscous/kebab cafes, Vietnamese eateries, authentic pizzarias, and even an abundance of new Argentinian empanada bars.
Particular mention should be made of the strong Toulousain/Spanish connection. You won't need to wander far before coming across some restaurant bodega or tapas bar serving great comida espanola.
About Foie Gras - Try to avoid buying the brands that don’t announce themselves as Origin France. Opinions are divided about Foie Gras production, but the French farmers don’t practice the intense factory methods of the cheaper brands brought in from other countries.
Copyright "Toulouse Weekend" 2009.
